Most recent update: 17th November 2021
The top hat supposedly first appeared in 1797 on the streets of London. A story goes that an English hatter, a Mr. Hetherington, literally caused a riot on the street and was fined a tidy sum of £500 for disturbing the peace for wearing a hat that he invented (i.e. a topper)! This has since been proven as a myth and the person that really invented the top hat was actually a Frenchman. George Dunnage (a master hatter from Middlesex) is credited to have introduced the hat to Britain around 1793. Regardless of its origins, the top hat had gained popularity and by the Regency Period, it was de rigueur for everyday wear for the English gentleman (who would eventually be the only ones in the world who would still wear and value the hat long after all other foreigners have abandoned its use, even for formal dress that required it). Indeed, a gentleman would risk being spat at in the street if he did not wear a hat in the past!
How times have changed. Now, you would find it difficult to see anyone wearing a hat these days as the continuous de-formalisation of dress and manners slowly creep in. The slobbiness has set in and in due course, T-shirt, shorts and flip-flops would be considered too formal for business wear as we let it all hang loose and adopt the ‘not boovered’ attitude… But I digress.
The only places where top hats can be worn are few and far between. It is restricted to the most formal dress codes of the land. You will need it at Royal Ascot in the Royal Enclosure, investitures, weddings, balls, galas, operas and any formal event that demands morning dress or white tie. Whatever you may wear with a topper, an inferior one would definitely make you look like you’re in a costume. Indeed, inferior toppers can be spotted from a mile away. Plus, you must wear the right kind of topper that is appropriate to your dress and occasion otherwise it will definitely be costume!
Here I put forward a guide to sourcing, buying and wearing a topper. Do not ‘panic buy’ a topper (like they did in an episode of the British version of The Apprentice where they headed to the most expensive place possible); do your research, wade through all that is available and purchase wisely. You could get a bargain easily if you know how.
.
Types of top hats
Contrary to popular belief, not all toppers come in one single style. There are around six different types and you must not wear some at events that are not appropriate for the topper in question! The types are:
- Black silk/fur melusine top hat
- Grey silk/fur felt/melusine top hat
- Black cloth/silk opera hat
- Black silk/fur melusine top hat with mourning band
- Black silk/fur melusine riding top hat
- Black silk/fur melusine livery top hat
- Black wool felt mourning top hat
There are, of course, other types but these are the most common. Let us examine their usage and suitability.
The black silk/fur melusine top hat is the commonest and is suitable for many events and dress. The crown height is typically 5 1/2 to 6 1/4″ and can come in a variety of different crown shapes (ideally, one should get one with a crown shape and height to suit one’s face and body; i.e. if your short and large, a very tall, thin hat would look silly on you). The most typical is the semi-bell shape but there are others such as ‘stove pipe’ (where the sides are completely straight and the crown is taller than 6 1/2″), ‘chimney’ (where the sides taper in slightly at the top), etc. The topper can come in a variety of weights depending on use. The ones worn today are typically ‘town weight’ ones which is made of a single layer of goss for the shell of the crown so is very light.
The grey silk/fur felt/melusine top hat used to be made of silk plush but you will not find this so easily since they stopped making silk ones since WWII. They are now made from normal fur felt. This topper is only really suitable for Royal Ascot and the races during the summer months though people nowadays wear it to weddings or any other event. In the past, many kept theirs with Lock’s so that it will not be worn when ‘out of season.’ It is often known as a ‘drab shell’ top hat or a ‘white hat’. Instead of a silk grosgrain hatband, there could be a band of black boxcloth (can also be found on black silk toppers as well) which is known as a ‘mourning band’. Never wear this hat with evening wear, formal Town (i.e. London) events or to funerals.
The black cloth/silk opera hat is a collapsible version of the topper that was invented by a French hatter called Antoine Gibus. It can be made of wool merino cloth, satin or (the better) grosgrain. These are still being made. They should only be worn with white tie and/or to the opera (hence the name). Never wear this during the day.
The black silk/fur melusine top hat with full mourning band, as the name suggests, should only be worn at funerals or during a period of mourning. Instead of a 2″ black silk grosgrain riband, the topper is wrapped around with a cloth band of around 3-5″ wide and secured using a line of tiny black silk or horn buttons. This is to cover much of the shiny silk surface of the crown. The wider the band the more important the person mourned for. Another way of indicating mourning is to have a long length of wide silk crêpe (with un-hemmed edges) tied around the lower sides of the crown with the excess length hanging off behind. These are called weepers or mourning veils and should only be worn by the chief mourner or funeral announcer of the funeral party (though these days they are mostly worn by funeral directors). Abraham Lincoln famously had a 4″ silk grosgrain mourning band permanently installed on his topper to mourn his son.
The black silk/fur melusine riding top hat is just like a normal silk topper except the crown is lower at around 4 1/4″ high. This is to avoid branches knocking the hat off when riding a horse. Unless you do dressage or regularly go riding, don’t make the mistake of buying one. Typically, some of these toppers are made in ‘country’ or ‘hunting weight’ which means they are heavier and stronger than your average topper.
The black silk/fur melusine livery top hat is basically like a normal topper but in addition has some gold or silver braiding/lace, brim binding and/or hatband. As the name suggests, it should only be worn by doorman and servants as part of their livery which often is trimmed with gold lace itself so the hat matches.
The black wool felt mourning top hat is basically that; a top hat worn by funeral directors, undertakers and mourners at a funeral who can’t afford a silk/fur melusine hat with a proper mourning band. Because it is made of wool, there is no shine to it thus indicating mourning. A lot of inferior toppers sold on the high street solely for the fashionable and trendy are of this type. The hat is felt-like and soft unlike the hard shell varieties above. One of the dead give-aways is to look at the brim binding which is simply machine sewn on and bent upwards like a homburg; a time saving method (see below example). It is also the choice for costume/fancy dress and Goths given its relative cheapness. There is also difference in quality where you get them from. From Christys’ they hat at least look similar to their fur melusine ones and these are the hats of choice for funerals, etc. The rest from the high street are only suitable for the informal and unofficial use: i.e. fancy dress, fashionistas, etc. Because of its relative cheapness and large dimensions, wool felt is also the material of choice for making toppers with extravagant and ridiculous shapes and sizes, most notably the late Sebastian Horsley’s infamous toppers, that would be impossible to make with the limited dimensions of fur melusine plush. Also, wool felt is simply blocked using an industrial press whilst other types require a shell to be blocked by hand before covering with the outer material thus making it less expensive and time consuming to make, hence the cheapness of it all.
Another type that must be mentioned is the non-collapsible shiny fabric/silk shell hat. They are a pale imitation of a collapsible topper and look rather ugly with sides all straight, side seams, flat brim and a rounded crown edge amongst other things. It is only appropriate for fancy dress or cheapskate magicians. These should be avoided at all costs…
One thing also to avoid is getting a milliner to do a hatmaker’s job. David Beckham recently decided to go down this route for the Royal Wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton and commissioned the milliner Philip Treacy to make a top hat. The shape of the crown was at least traditional but the construction and other details were below par and it ended up looking like a fancy dress hat (it even had some sort of mourning band for the hatband similar to President Lincoln’s and so entirely inappropriate for a wedding anyway). It would most be suitable for a lady but for a man it is most definitely not (this point is made stronger by the fact that he never once wore it on top of his head so it became a mere fashion accessory with no practical use; I will not comment about how he wore his OBE…)
.
Notes on finding and purchasing a top hat
We are only going to concentrate on the first three types since the others are sort of ‘specialist toppers’ which we civilians are unlikely to wear or we should not bother getting (or are more or less already within the remits of the first three categories). These can be obtained via the same route as the first three anyway so no need to discuss them further.
There are a variety of sources where you can get these toppers. Knowing where can save you a few (hundred) bob…
NB: Americans often use the term ‘beaver hat’ in a very vague and wide ranging sense, sometimes referring to actual top hats made of real beaver fur felt or to silk or fur melusine ones! Be sure what it really is to avoid costly mistakes or passing up on a good deal!
Silk plush top hat
Let’s start on the silk plush topper (also known as a ‘high silk’). Firstly, these are no longer made because the last looms to make the silk plush was destroyed in 1947 and secondly, they stopped making silk toppers in 1959 when the silk plush ran out. Therefore, you can only obtain these vintage or second-hand.
For an explanation of how silk hats were made, please read my blog on this subject: Method of Making Top Hats.
There are several methods which you could obtain it: inherited, bought re-furbish and bought second-hand and then re-furbished if necessary.
If you inherited your topper, the chances are that it may not fit you. You may need to re-conform it to your head shape (that is, if the topper in question is in your hat size, otherwise it is not worth the hassle). To do this you must visit a hatter who will use the conformateur on your head to make a small scale template of your head on a piece of card then transfer it onto a formillion or conform block (these items themselves are very rare and go for thousands of pounds at auctions), heat the hat on a special heater to soften the shellac and mould the topper into your head shape. Regardless of how you obtain your silk topper, it needs to be reconformed if it doesn’t fit you well.
Buying a re-furbished topper from a hatter is another way. The hatter would have repaired any damage and reconditioned the silk so it looks as good as new. However, if you do not have a couple of hundred/thousand pounds to spare, this is likely to be an expensive option given the next option available. The cost ranges from £500-2000+ from the main hatters of the realm. The larger the hat size, the greater it is going to cost you as large toppers are rare given that peoples’ heads were smaller in the old days than now. Indeed, this maybe your only option if your hat size is larger than 7 1/2. Sizes over 7 3/4 are rare and expensive.
If you could indeed try on the hat in person, there is one way of telling if it is the correct size. Firstly, you should wear it correctly; that being dead straight and not tilted to the side or towards the back. It should slip comfortably on without you having to force it down on your head too much. The hat should sit around an inch above the eye brows. Another way is to place your finger/s between your ear and the brim of the hat at the side of your head. If there is one finger’s worth of space then the hat is the right size. If you can easily place two fingers in that space then the hat is too small. If you have difficulty inserting a finger at all or the brim actually touches the ears then that hat is too large. Of course, you may feel pressure points but these maybe due to the hat shape being different to your head shape and this can be sorted out with a conformateur. Another thing to note is that if you are wearing it in hot weather, your head might shrink a little causing the hat feel larger than it is. Therefore bear this in mind what hat to choose and for what occasion.
Buying second hand can be surprisingly successful if you know where to look. Your first port of call is eBay where toppers crop up in a continuous line of auctions. Search for words like ‘silk top hat’, ‘vintage top hat’, ‘antique top hat’, etc and various combinations thereof. You will find around 20-50 listings. Ignore all the buy-it-now listings for now and concentrate on the auctions, especially those with very low starting bids. The best time not to buy on eBay is the few months leading to Royal Ascot as the prices would be severely inflated due to demand (likewise, this is a good time to sell a topper if you happen to want to get a good price on it). You should wait until well after, especially winter time when there is no real demand for them. However, for the large hat sizes, you would probably only find buy-it-now listings as the seller (sensibly) does not wish to part with these for nothing. Sometimes, you can get a large hat for a significantly lower price if there is damage or flaws to it. If you go for such hats you must weight up the cost of restoring the hat.
Of course, before you bid or buy you must check the photos of the hat in question very carefully. You should ask yourself some questions:
- What is the hat size?
- What is the condition of the silk plush?
- Is there any wear to the edge of the crown?
- Are there any dents to the crown?
- Is the underbrim merino in good condition?
- Is the leather sweatband intact?
- What is the condition of the silk hatband and silk brim binding?
- Is the silk lining in good condition?
- Who, when and where was the hat made?
- Does it come with a hat box?
The first few questions are important. The hat size is vital as the topper must fit otherwise you’re buying a white elephant. Sometimes, sellers are vague as to the size. Ask them to measure the inner circumference of the sweatband to make sure it is in your hat size. Note that most (if not all) toppers made in Europe go by English hat sizes. It is better if the hat is one size too big rather than one size too small as with a bigger size, there is room for adjustments with the conformateur and cork could be inserted into the sweatband to fit. A hat too small cannot be stretched or altered to a bigger size. This is because the crown of a top hat is made with a sheet of goss with the ends joined together to form a cylinder with a brim made up of several layers of goss for it to be as stiff as plywood stuck on so the size is fixed. Stretching it by force will damage the overall structure of the hat and would cause the brim to buckle or even the hat to break.
The next most important thing is the condition of the silk plush. Any rips or tears are going to be costly to repair or are non-repairable. The edge of the crown is where a lot of wear can happen as this is the place where, through improper storage, the silk can be rubbed and worn off. A good topper will have little, if any, wear to the crown edge. Minor wear can be easily gotten away with. However, such wear cannot be repaired (usually, in the past, when this happened the hatmaker would simply strip the old silk plush cover off and iron on a new one; an option which is, of course, no longer possible). All they could do is maybe add blacking or stick a patch of fur plush to make it less conspicuous.
Another common problem is with dents to the crown due to improper storage, accidents or handling. Normally, unless you actually handle the hat yourself, dents are not evident in photos unless the hat is well polished so the surface is flat enough and the hat is photographed with the flash on. Sometimes, the dents are minor and could be gotten away with if you just dry polish it so the nap does not go completely flat against the surface thus disguising the flaws. However, if there is extensive denting then the hat requires reblocking to remove them. To do this, the sweatband is turned out (or removed completely), the slip lining is removed, the inside where the dent is is then whetted with a sponge, the hat placed on a half-block secured onto a potance frame where an iron is applied on the outside. The heat and moisture causes the shellac to soften and be ironed flat against the half-block removing the dent in the process. Sometimes the goss shell maybe rather thin to the point that it breaks at the dent meaning reblocking won’t work. In such a case, a new strip of goss is iron on to reinforce the area so the dent can be ironed out.
The underbrim is faced with what is called ‘merino’. It is a special wool twill that is no longer produced. This part is where a lot of moth damage could occur and if there is it would need refacing if the damage is extensive. Another common problem is discolouration due to long exposure to sunlight but this can easily be corrected with a bit of careful dye application and is not as important as moth damage which creates unsightly and noticeable marks. Refacing the underbrim will also require the brim binding to be replaced (as the silk ribbon may be damaged during the process of removal) and sweatband may be affected so make sure you are willing to sacrifice those if you need to get it refaced.
If the leather sweatband is intact then that is a bonus. Replacing the sweatband is relatively cheap. If a few stitches are loose then that can easily be repaired. A good sweatband is a must as it is the only thing protecting the hat from sweat. A badly installed sweatband would enable sweat to seep onto the shell which soaks it up and weakens the shellac and hat. Also, if the sweatband requires replacing, make sure the leather used is the same thickness as the original as a thicker sweatband can cause the size of the hat to shrink a little. A hat slightly too large for your head can have the size reduced slightly by either installing a thicker sweatband or having the original sweatband ‘drummed’. Another way would be to stick foam (or better, cork) behind the sweatband but this is only a temporary measure and if the hat is too big it would not sit well and be likely to slip off. Ideally, any new replacement should be as close to the original in design. The sweatband should be hand sewn onto the underbrim with very close fine stitching using very fine silk thread. If there are not any major issues with the sweatband then it should be left alone as sweatbands made in the past are of a superior quality compared to the modern ones and you will regret it afterwards.
The topper’s upperbrim is most often of the same silk plush as on the crown but sometimes it can be of grosgrain silk (sometimes referred to as a ‘petersham brim’.) This itself is not bad but the brim looks far better with silk plush. The upperbrim can also be faced with merino or even satin.
The silk hatband and brim binding also can be replaced if damaged. Sometimes the silk lining is stained but since this doesn’t affect the appearance outside of the hat then it is not important.
Another important point to look at is the brim curl. The correct/proper brim curl is that the fore and aft of the brim should only be curled very tightly, almost like the edge is folded in on itself with 1/8″ turning flat against the upperbrim, but the sides should be curled inwards almost 180 degrees with a wide turning. This is known as the d’Orsay curl, named after Count d’Orsay, a French dandy, and is extensively used for toppers and bowlers alike. The silk binding should be less on top and more on the underside so the fore and aft shows only a piping width of silk binding on the top but the sides show a wide section of ribbon as the underside is turned up to expose most of the ribbon (but note that some hatmakers do it slightly differently). This must all be hand-stitched. Inferior silk toppers are simply machine stitched so you would see the machine stitches clearly and are simply bent upwards without a sweeping curl. For a comparison, look at the brim of the silk topper in the second photo above and compare it with the wool one (8th from above). If the brim binding is to be replaced, make sure it is replaced with pure silk grosgrain ribbon as rayon does not look ‘right’ as it is thicker and more stiff and the light does not reflect on it in the same way as for pure silk. If the hatter in question could not source silk ribbon then you should inform them that Mokuba (a Japanese ribbon maker with outlets in New York, Paris, Toronto and Tokyo, etc) have black pure silk grosgrain ribbon in various widths that are exactly the same as the silk grosgrain ribbons of old. The part number is 20000 and it is called, by them, silk taffeta ribbon, colour no. 3. I have used this ribbon myself to replace the brim binding and it is the closest thing to the original ribbons. For a detailed explanation of how the brim binding is replaced, see this blog post by torontotophats: http://torontotophats.wordpress.com/2011/10/26/how-to-replace-a-damaged-brim-binding/.
It is said that good silk toppers are marked in the lining with the words ‘extra quality’ so if it is then that is a bonus. Famous names to look for are Herbert Johnson, Lincoln Bennett, James Lock & Co., Henry Heath and Patey. However, don’t be confused by brand names and labels; you are looking for a good hat that fits and not a flawed hat with a name on it.
And do not be trapped by provenance; a topper worn by a former Prime Minister or a King may sound magnificent but if it doesn’t fit you or is battered then it is not really worth (the few hundred/thousand more pounds it adds to the final price plus insurance) buying it to look at, although if it fits, is in good condition and you have the money, there is no reason why not in order to save it being put ‘in captivity’ by a collector who wouldn’t care much to wear it as it was intended for.
Other points to consider are the height and shape of the crown but this is really personal in preference. Note that there are two ‘weights’ for toppers: town weight and country (or hunting) weight. The former is very light and is made of a single sheet of goss covered with silk plush. The latter is quite heavy and is made up of many layers of goss covered with silk plush. Sometimes, hunting toppers have a piece at the back that cups the back of the skull and/or have a quilted sweatband with a drawstring tape so the topper stays more securely on the head.
Finally, if it has a hat box, check to see its condition as sometimes you may have to discard it as it is too damaged to keep a topper in. A good leather top hat bucket with key and strap intact would be a real score. Note that a new leather bucket would cost you over a thousand punds so you must really get a vintage one instead! Bear in mind that a hat box could potentially add a few hundred to the final price so sometimes it is better to go for toppers that do no have a hat box to keep costs to a minimum.
In regards to top hat boxes, getting a top hat bucket is good but if you cannot afford one or cannot source a good vintage one (with a working lock and key) then you can opt for an ordinary modern one. There are several types including an average oval card hat box. There are also vintage sturdy card hat boxes (not the oval form ones) with a carry strap and a double flap lid that are very cheap and useful for storing and transporting toppers.
Patey’s once sold a good hat case specifically for toppers. This not the traditional bucket or the card hat box but a good strong case. It is like a suitcase made of wood and leather with combination lock. The leather case is perfect for heavy transportation of your topper (especially aboard) as it is a solid square case. I have not been able to find an alternative to this.
If you’re not going to travel much with your topper and don’t want to invest in a hat box then you could make a hat box yourself using an old cardboard box. Make sure it is slightly larger than the hat, fashion a lid, make four triangular ‘brackets’ out of strips of the card and stick them to the sides of the box near the top so that the hat is suspended. You can add additional packing material such as bubble wrap (but don’t overdo it) and loosely wrap the hat in a large silk scarf before placing inside the box (to avoid the plush rubbing on the packing material) followed by a layer of packing paper and the lid which is what you should do if you are going to send the hat through the post.
If the topper has ticked all (or most) of the right boxes then set yourself a limit and bid on it! Bear in mind whether you need some restoration work done to it after you received it. In regards to restoration work, there are several hatters that do this, most notably Ascot Top Hats, Lock & Co. and Patey’s, however, they more or less outsource to one or two workshops in the UK (possibly the world) that still has the tools, knowledge and skills for this kind of work, Honri Hats of Stroud, Gloucestershire and Cooper Stevens of Dulwich. You should entrust renovations to English firms as they have the regular experience and expertise of silk topper renovation that American hatters do not (save maybe replacing the sweatband, etc).
Other good places to get a second-hand one are at charity/antique shops, antique fairs or auctions. Go to ones in wealthier areas and you could grab one cheaply. Antique and vintage clothing fairs are also a good place where they crop up. The advantage here is that you can examine the goods in the flesh and try the hat on for fit. You must rely on your haggling skills to get a good price. It is also good to go to these places to actually handle a real silk hat so you know what one looks and feels like which would help you in future at selecting and scrutinising potential toppers that you wish to buy.
You may, of course, come across a silk plush topper in a colour other than black, such as grey or even brown. A very dark brown is known as ‘fly wings black’ and is almost black unless examined closely. These, of course, are extremely rare and even if they don’t fit you, it is worth getting them for the resale value alone! I have yet to find someone who possesses a grey silk hat but I know that Patey’s, Lock’s and Oliver Brown have an example each. Oliver Brown’s example was priced at £25,000 which, in all honestly, is extremely overpriced (£6,000 is more closer to the mark)!!!
There were other (possible) avenues of relief for those with large heads that cannot find a vintage silk plush topper cheap enough. Two top hat makers in The Netherlands claimed to have access to what I assumed was old stock silk plush (but I have heard say that there are still one or two looms still weaving silk plush and it might be from one of these that he gets the silk plush from though it is odd that none of the main hatters of the realm seem to have caught wind of this potentially profitable commercial avenue and exploited it!) but I have since found out from them that it is new silk plush, or so they claimed! They were Ton Meewuis and Mark Spoorenberg (who both died in 2013/14) of the confusingly almost identically named Silk Top Hats and Silk Top Hat respectively. I have never examined their hats in the flesh to verity the claims. If you have one of their hats, please drop me a line as I would really love to see them in the flesh. I have a feeling they might be one and the same person…
I’ve also heard rumours of a hatmaker called Massimiliano Amicucci (who makes for films and theatre, recently making the toppers for the Top Hat production in the West End) making silk plush toppers (there is this intriguing video on YouTube and going by how the light reflects the tip of the hat, it is plush of some kind: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejfbUKmSbpM). Again, I have yet to confirm this as I haven’t looked into it properly yet.
Once you have your topper, you should brush the hat with a top hat brush and polish with a velvet pad. Do not use steam as that can damage the silk plush.
One of my acquaintances told me that beaver fur plush is actually superior to silk plush but I have yet to examine one and judge for myself whether this is the case. The current widely used fur plush toppers use rabbit fur which is not as good as silk.
Fur melusine/felt top hat
If you can’t find a good silk topper (most likely because you have a very large hat size) then the next best thing is to get a fur melusine topper (‘melusine’ as in fur with a directional nap, not ‘felt’ which is flat like on normal hats such as trilbys, fedoras, bowlers and homburgs). These are available at quite affordable prices and are well made. The fur is made in a way that mimics the nap of the silk plush and can be polished to a certain degree. The colour is closer to Oxford grey than jet black given that the light reflects on it differently to silk. It also has a fuzzy look and feel to it. The first top hats were made with beaver fur felt before silk replaced it. Fur melusine hats are heavier than silk because the shell is of blocked wool felt covered with the fur plush, which was exactly how toppers were made before the invention of the goss-layering method.
All the hatters of the realm supply these in a range of prices. They are sold in two crown heights and the price is the same regardless of hat size. It is also a good investment if you wear a topper very often and would like a different texture topper for a change or you are going out in the country and do not wish to damage your precious silk topper.
The cheapest place to get a fur topper is Christys’ of London. They also sell the grey fur felt toppers for even cheaper. In my opinion, I would eschew the black mourning band and go for a narrow silk hatband with bow and brim binding of the same colour as the hat. This looks far more elegant than the current done-to-death set-up of light grey hat, dark grey brim binding and black wool band which looks ‘muddy’ in my honest opinion having three clashing colours. Also, mourning bands are so-called because originally they were for mourning (or maybe a reduced version of the proper wide ones) and it really seems illogical to even wear one at all with normal top hats but everyone has forgotten what and why it’s there in the first place and we are stuck with this set-up (no one will blame you for wearing a mourning band or think that you are in mourning now that the significance is lost but still, a silk band looks far better). It is also a solecism to have a grey topper, associated with races and fun-in-the-sun summery occasions, with a mourning band installed. I think it may be a cost cutting exercise more than anything else (making and installing a narrow wool mourning band is far easier, quicker and cheaper than making a grosgrain ribbon hatband with bow.)
For the traditional wide black wool felt mourning band on black toppers with a row of silk buttons at the side these are as rare as hen’s teeth and you could possibly get one of the hatmakers to make one for you. You’ll need to hand them your hat as these things can only be made bespoke as each hat is different in crown shape and the band needs to hug the crown with no lumps or folds:
If you do get one, make sure that you do not have the band permanently installed on the hat as it might leave a mark on the plush as well as attract moths. Take it off after use.
If you want something special and have the money you may wish to consider ordering a bespoke fur melusine or grey fur felt topper from Patey’s. You can specify the crown shape, height, finish, binding, etc as well as the weight. They can also make it the traditional way of layering goss over a hat block before covering with fur melusine, beaver or felt and then trimming and finishing. The shell would be very hard and stiff (and I imagine could be stood upon like original riding toppers).
Another source of bespoke fur melusine toppers is Ascot Top Hats who can do them in colours other than black. A good choice would be grey to mimic the original grey silk topper that was replaced by fur felt after the war.
Black cloth/silk opera hat
Black silk opera hats are still being made and can be obtained relatively easy (though the main hatters of the realm seem not to advertise them). Your first port of call is eBay, especially German eBay (which seems to have hundreds!), as there are a few vintage ones that crop up now and again. You can probably only get a grosgrain one this way as most modern opera hats are made using satin (sometimes using the inferior kind).
Check that there are no tears to the outside silk and the inside lining. Most opera hats have no leather sweatband so the inside can wear out very quickly.
A satin opera hat can be ordered from one of the hatters of the realm or bought from certain online shops. If you are taking the latter route make sure you do not inevitably order a ‘fancy dress’ looking one! Indeed, some modern ones look rather horrid even thought they are probably made correctly. Look at the shine of the satin. It should look like a highly polished silk plush top hat and not matt. Also, the brim curl and all the details I have outlined for silk plush hats has to be correct otherwise you might as well get a vintage one.
However, since you would probably be paying something in the same region as a normal fur melusine topper, it is probably not worth the money (unless you cannot find one in your size of course.)
A wool merino cloth opera hat (in black or midnight blue) is just as appropriate for white tie however they are extremely rare as the silk versions are more popular. If you want one, you would have to be incredibly lucky on eBay or vintage shopping, etc.
Price rises
Ever since writing this article in 2009, I have noticed a sharp rise in silk top hat prices (as of 2011).
Any silk topper that is a size 7 or lower you can easily get for under £100 in fairly good condition. However, as you go up in size the prices go up steeply. A 7 1/8 can be had for under £150 as you may for a 7 1/4 for under £200 but at 7 3/8 the price shoots up to around £300+. The reason for such inflation is because the stocks of silk top hats for larger heads are running low and as the years roll by it becomes more difficult to get one any cheaper.
Therefore, my advice is that if you really want a silk topper, now is the time to invest in one because in a few years time the prices could go way beyond what they are currently now and you might never be able to get hold of one. If you are assembling your morning dress ensemble, the first priority is not the bodycoat, trousers or waistcoat, it is now the silk topper.
As for the condition, any will do, even if there are dents, etc. If the price is lowered because of the damage, it is best to get it now and save up to refurbish it than wait for one in good condition that could cost more than the damaged topper plus reconditioning fees. Recently, a 7 3/8 topper came up on eBay for £100 buy-it-now. There was damage to the plush, etc. The reconditioning charge would probably be around £195 + VAT through Patey’s. Was gone in just a day. Another in good condition was put up for £285 buy-it-now (down from £385). This is actually a good deal considering the current prices. Therefore, it is no longer the time to be picky. Even if there is damage, go for it if the price is good and judging on what the costs for reconditioning it in the future would be likely.
Currently, the price range for a silk topper ranges from £50 (for a small, with minor wear but sometimes decent if you’re lucky, one) up to £3000+ (for large sized/rare ones).
Hatters of the Realm and beyond
Here are a list of hatters that stock or make top hats. As I said, one should shop around and compare prices and get recommendations. Note that with some common-sense, you do not need to fork out a fortune for a topper. To all intents and purposes, since you can wear a black silk topper to any formal event bar one or two, it is best to focus you attention to obtaining such as you only really need one that will be suitable and appropriate for all. Thus, grey toppers and opera hats can be saved for a time when you have money to spare.
NB: this list is not exhaustive and the information is valid as from June 2018. Inclusion in this list does not mean I personally endorse any of these hatmakers/hatters. However I do try and list ones that sell decent and vintage toppers that can be worn in actual situations and not as mere costume. I have removed the prices as they would keep going up and I don’t want to keep updating all the time.
Hatters
James Lock & Co.
Sells fur melusine toppers in two heights as well as grey drab shell toppers. Renovation service and vintage silk toppers for sale. Can re-conform and repair hats (out-sourced).
Oliver Brown
Sells renovated vintage toppers as well as modern fur melusine. They also offer a repair service for silk toppers (out-sourced).
Ascot Top Hats
Sells Christys’ (and others) and refurnished vintage top hats. Can re-conform and restore hats. Since 2010, they can now make their own bespoke top hats out of fur plush/melusine in a variety of colours and other hats to order and have expanded their range to include opera hats and other novel ones.
Bates Hats
Sells fur melusine toppers in a variety of colours.
Christys’
Sells black fur melusine and grey felt toppers.
Specialist silk hat retailers
The Top Hat Shop
Specialist silk top hat dealer. Also sells top hat buckets/boxes and has a renovation service.
The Sporting Study
Specialist top hat dealer who also sells other racing-themed paraphernalia.
Hetherington Hats
Specialist top hat dealer. Can re-conform and repair hats.
Hatmakers/repairers
Patey’s
Made and sold bespoke fur plush hats. However, apparently they have been dissolved as a company due to their old workshop being burnt down a few years ago(?) Honri Hats et al. have taken over most of the services it once offered.
Honri Hats
Subsidiary company of Patey’s managing the workshop in Stroud. Makes the hard-shell gossamer hats and offers a repair service for silk toppers. Previously known as the Silk Top Hat Company and under various other guises.
Cooper Stevens
Another Subsidiary company of Patey’s based in the old workshops in Dulwich, they also repair silk toppers.
.
Glossary
Here is a short glossary of terms which are mentioned above as well as additional useful terms one may come across. Note that it is not meant to be comprehensive and some terms are open to interpretation.
Airhole/air-vent: a small hole in the centre of the tip of the crown with a gauze fitting to allow the heat from the head to escape in some top hats
Beaver fur/felt: the old form of plush used to cover top hats in the past but now mostly used to cover ceremonial hats, hence ‘beaver hat’; often used mistakenly by Americans to describe silk plush
Beaver hat: the term used for all hats (including top hats) made with a covering of beaver fur/felt in the past
Bell crown: a top hat crown shape; the width of the tip is wider than the base of the sides
Boater style top hat: a top hat with a straight crown of around 4″ tall with a flat brim
Bow: a decorative feature on the hatband or at the base of the seam of a sweatband
Brim: the part that extends out of the crown of a hat at all sides in one piece
Brim binding: the ribbon that binds around the edge of the brim
Brim block: an oval wooden block with a hole in the centre used to iron the brim on the crown of a hat
Brim curl: the degree and style of how the brim edge is curled inwards towards the crown of a hat
Cheesecloth: a loose-woven gauze like cotton fabric used in the process of making cheese but can also be used to make Goss
Chimney pot crown: a top hat crown like that of the Stovepipe style top hat but with slightly curved sides
Cloth: wool fabric
Coodle: a shellac based paste used in the process of making Goss
Conformateur: a device use in taking the head shape of an individual to create a scaled down pattern on card in order to reconform a hat
Conform block: see Formillion
Conform card: the paper template of one’s head shape scaled down
Country weight: a hat that is heavy, its shell made of many layers of goss
Crêpe: (also crape) a light woven fabric made of spun silk with a gauzy feel to it
Crown: the part of a hat that covers the skull of the head and does not include the brim
Crown edge: the sharp edge of the crown where the tip meets the sides
Cumberland style top hat: a top hat crown with sides that tapers towards the tip
Cupped back: a stiff construction attached to the back of a equestrian top hat that cups the back of the skull of the head in order for the hat to be more secure
Curling iron: a hat iron with a special groove used in the curling of the brim of a hat
Doff: to grip the brim of a hard hat (or crown of a soft hat) and lift it off the head a few inches as a gesture of greeting or acknowledgement
D’orsay style top hat: a typical top hat shape with a Full or Semi-bell crown and a sweeping brim curl
Drawstring: either a tape with a drawstring fitted to the sweatband to allow for a better fit on the head on riding hats or a decorative ribbon or cord installed on the sweatband
Drummed (sweatband): a sweatband that has been slightly shortened then re-sewn back onto the hat but with shorter stitches whilst stretching it to fit the bigger opening so the original hat size is reduced
Equestrian top hat: same as a Country weight top hat save it has a short crown of around 4″ and has a quilted sweatband and a drawstring and maybe a cupped back
Felt: a flat, almost fussy, fabric without a pile or directional nap; used as a shell of a grey top hat; or in the past as the shell of a silk top hat that is then covered in silk plush
Formillion: an adjustable block used in reconforming a hat
Full bell crown: as Bell (crown) but the degree of curving at the sides is greater
Fur: fur from animals used to make fur felt or plush for hats
Gibus: Antonie Gibus, the inventor of the collapsible top hat; also an alternative term for Opera hat
Goss: linen, cotton calico or cheesecloth that has been soaked in coodle and left to cure for a few months on a frame; used to make the shell of top hats; supposedly invented by Lincoln Bennett
Gossamer: see Goss
Grosgrain: ribbed silk
Half block: see also Reblocking; a wooden hat block covered in cloth that is one half of a full hat block that is mounted on a potance frame used in the process of blocking the crown of a hat to shape using a hat iron; comes in three shapes: full bell, semi-bell and straight
Hat block: a standard wooden block of the crown of a hat; a top hat block consists of several interlocking pieces
Hat iron: irons of various shapes and sizes used in the process of hat making, blocking and polishing
Hat maker: a person or company that makes hats from start to finish
Hatband: the often narrow ribbon encircling the crown at the base of the sides
Hatter: a person or company that sell and retails hats but may also finish or repair hats
Hatter’s Plush: pure silk plush, original made on Lyon and Metz, manufactured in several different pieces for each part of a top hat
Hard hat: a hat with a stiff shell that has little or no give that can only be manipulated once heat is applied
High silk: an alternative term for a silk plush top hat
Hunting weight: see Country weight
John Bull style top hat: same as for Yeoman Farmer style top hat
Linen: a fabric made by the fibres of the flax plant used in the making of Goss
Lining: several pieces of material inside the crown of a hat covering the shell; can be a slip-in or a permanently attached lining and often bearing the maker or retailer’s label
Mad Hatter: refers to the character in Alice in Wonderland, harking back to the hatters of olden days that suffered from mercury poisoning during the felting process
Milliner: a person or company that makes hats and fascinators specifically for ladies
Melusine: Christys’ term for fur plush; the strands are not uniform as is for silk plush
Merino: wool twill used in the facing of the underbrim of top hats
Mourning band: traditionally, a very wide detachable hatband secured with a tiny row of buttons, or a narrow hatband permanently secured to the hat
Mourning veil: see Weeper(s)
Opera hat: a collapsible top hat
Petersham: a ribbed rayon ribbon with a saw-tooth edge
Plush: a fabric with strands forming a pile, like velvet, but has a directional nap that aligns flat when brush in one direction; used to cover the shell of a top hat
Polishing (top hat): the act of using a pad (usually of velvet) to align the nap of the plush in a uniform direction so that light reflects off the surface to a greater degree of clarity; water or tallow may be used also to make the nap adhere to the surface creating a high shine
Potance block: see Half block
Potance frame: a C-shaped frame secured onto a table with a vice from which different half blocks are installed
Quilted sweatband: a sweatband made of silk or rayon, padded with cotton and stitched together; used on country and riding toppers for comfort
Rayon: artificial silk; also called ‘viscose’
Reblocking: the process of reshaping the crown and/or brim of a hat, often to remove dents or creases
Reconform: the process of reshaping the head shape of a hard hat
Regent style top hat: a top hat with a crown similar to that of a Stovepipe style top hat but the brim is not flat
Refurbishment: to clean or change certain things on a top hat
Renovation: to repair and clean a top hat
Restoration: to return a top hat to its original condition using authentic trimmings and methods
Riband: another term for hatband
Riding weight: see Country weight
Satin: shiny silk
Semi-bell crown: as Bell (crown) but the degree of curving at the sides is smaller
Shell: the overall structure of a hard hat from which it is covered with an appropriate material
Sides: the sides of the crown of a top hat
Silk: a natural material produced by silk moths but sometimes used for artificial or fake silk as well so ‘pure’ is sometimes affixed before to avoid confusion
Silk hat: a term for a silk plush top hat
Silk hat heater: a special heater for silk top hats used in the process of reconforming (steaming can ruin the silk plush)
Silk shag: the original term used for silk plush
Soft hat: a hat that is soft and malleable and can be manipulated easily in the hands without the need to heat the hat
Stovepipe style top hat: the crown of a top hat that is taller than 7″ and the sides are completely straight with the brim most often flat
Sweatband: a strip of leather or fabric inside the crown of a hat that is in contact with the head when worn to stop sweat from seeping into the hat as well as to act as a cushion for the head
Tip: the top flat part of the crown of a top hat
Tip block: a metal disc on a spinning pole used in the process of blocking or polishing the tip of a top hat
Tipping: to point, to touch or to lightly grasp the brim of a hat when wearing it as a gesture of greeting or acknowledgement
Topper: alternative name for a top hat
Town weight: a hat that is light, its shell being made of one layer of goss
Trimmings: refers to the silk ribbon, sweatband, lining, etc used to finish a hat
Twill: a fabric with very faint diagonal ribbing
Upperbrim: the top side of the brim of a top hat
Underbrim: the underside of the brim of a top hat
Weeper(s): a wide length of black silk crêpe with un-hemmed edges (around 5″ x 6′) tied around the topper with the excess length hanging behind, worn by the chief mourner or funeral announcer of a funeral party (though these days, they are mostly worn by funeral directors)
Wellington style top hat: a top hat with a crown similar to a Full bell crown but with very concave sides and a swooping brim to a great degree with a dipped fore and aft and high sides
White hat: old term for a grey top hat
Yeoman Farmer style top hat: short crown top hat similar to that of an Equestrian top hat with curled brim
.
Epilogue
Once you have obtained your topper, be sure to look after it carefully as it should last a lifetime (indeed, it should last generations.) But it won’t be longer before you start your search for your next, and the next, and the… Using my tips and pointers, you won’t have to spend a fortune. And now you have a topper, why not go out and find occasions to wear it? If you look hard enough, there are!
Happy doffing!
.
Updates
4th March 2010: Expanded information on brim curl and silk brim binding and wool toppers. Added new paragraph on hat boxes/cases for toppers. Replaced satin opera hat photo with new one.
23rd March 2010: Added paragraph about grosgrain brims.
26th March 2010: Added clarification on Patey’s canvas case. Add a bit more on the conformateur, etc. Various spelling/grammatical corrections. Update prices.
29th May 2010: Added new website that sells vintage hunting toppers. Add information about country weight toppers.
25th June 2010: Updated information on Ascot Top Hats (including a paragraph on their new fur plush toppers in the fur melusine section). Added information on Silk Top Hats and their new silk plush toppers. Clarify information on the Patey hat case.
10th July 2010: Added link to British Pathé vintage film footage of silk top hats being made by Sidney Patey.
27th February 2011: Revised hatters list, updated prices, removed some dead links and sites not good enough. Added more info on underbrim and leather sweatband, etc. Update prices for Silk Top Hat new silk plush toppers.
3rd March 2011: Fixed McMicking address link.
4th March 2011: Added paragraph about provenance, grey toppers, mourning bands, cloth opera hats, etc. Clarified the different types of toppers so ‘fur melusine’ and ‘fur felt’ are distinct from one another. Added new section on price rises. Added captions to all images. Expanded wool felt topper description.
5th March 2011: Added new hatter to list: Vintage Toppers.
18th March 2011: Minor updates and corrections. Added images of new silk plush topper and rayon plush topper as well as images of various damages to silk toppers, riding sweatband, brim binding, etc. Added new paragraph on dents to crown and the reblocking process.
5th April 2011: Added paragraph on how to tell the sizing of a hat is correct.
10th April 2011: Replaced most of the dead link Patey photos.
4th May 2011: Added information and photo about Beckham’s ‘hat’ at the Royal Wedding.
15th June 2011: Added a Glossary section. Changed some words, etc.
17th & 18th June 2011: Added more terms to Glossary. Minor corrections.
22nd June 2011: Added a paragraph clarifying my views on Ton Meewuis’s new silk top hats.
6th July 2011: Added Christys’ new site and Top Secret Hats (neé Hornet Hats).
16th August 2011: Embedded links to some images.
20th September 2011: Added a sentence on inserting foam/cork strips under sweatband.
28th September 2011: Added some info about grey and brown silk toppers, inc. a photo.
6th October 2011: Added info about weepers.
20th October 2011: Fixed broken linked photos.
27th October 2011: Added more info about silk grosgrain ribbon and a link to the guide about replacing the brim binding.
3rd November 2011: Added image of wool merino opera hat.
23rd February 2012: Correct date Dunnage introduced toppers to Britain, from 1973 to 1793. Fix broken link to conformateur and formillion image.
29th February 2012: Added image of grey silk top hat. Corrected some dates.
29th March 2012: Rewording here and there.
17th April 2012: Added link to Method of Making Top Hats blog post.
31st August 2012: Added another site, Silk Top Hat, to the list of hatters.
13th April 2013: Removed link to Top Secret Hats (company went bust in February 2013). Some copyediting. Added Sporting Study entry to Hatters of the Realm list, makeshift hat box, etc.
14th April 2013: Added a line on ‘fly wings black’, a very dark brown.
22nd April 2013: Removed link to polishing article. Added new photos of mourning bands.
23rd April 2013: Added link to The Silk Top Hat Company. Removed History in the Making (I don’t think the guy makes silk hats any more). Some minor edits to opera hats. Added note about Massimiliano Amicucci who seems to be able to make silk plush hats. Added photo of a different style of brim binding.
30th April 2013: Changed Country and Field Antiques to The Vintage Tack Room and updated link.
17th April 2014: Updated in light of news of Ton Meeuwis’s death.
28th May 2014: Further updates and tidying up.
19th March 2015: Minor updates and tidying up. Fixed broken image.
26th June 2018: replaced all images to ones hosted on WordPress so they don’t get broken anymore. Overhaul of main text to update and reflect current information.
17th November 2021: Added info about Patey’s no longer existing.
As a boy I had two ambitions: to visit New York and to own a top hat. I’ve been to New York and your post has allowed me to dream that it might be possible to pull off a top hat. Thank you 🙂
Very interesting and informative. But you have not mentioned
The Top Hat Shop. I think that would just finish it off!
Wooohh!! Thank You! I Can Now Cosplay The Artful Dodger From Oliver Twist With My Own Top Hat (: The Pictures Helped Me To Get A Look On The Right Top Hat I Wanted.
Hello! –A very interesting article on Top Hats. I have just acquired a fairly oridinary black felt ‘Topper.’ I want to renovate it slightly. What material should I use to polish or buff it up. Someone suggested balck shoe polish?
Any suggestions gratefully received.
Many thanks.
Adrian barak
You buff it buff with a hat brush. Do not use shoe polish unless your top hat is made of shoe leather…
I have recently discovered that the hat I posses is very note worthy. It is a Lincoln Bennett 162 Piccadilly London Bowlers Hat and is Incredibly Antiqued. I am having quite difficulty finding information on its value and age, for such information seem very rare. If I could receive any help in evaluating this family heirloom it would be greatly appreciated.
Thankyou,
Ms.Brooxie Cruse
I suggest you take it to Lock & Co. or Pateys. They will have sufficient knowledge to value your topper. Also, make sure you keep it in a good hat box because if it is worth a lot, you don’t want it damaged due to bad storage.
Goord story,
I am the owner of a Knox hat (pré WWI) made of beaver fur. The quality seems good for the age. Is the quality of beaver fur (Knox) different than the (early) English silk hats (Bennett, Lock)?
By quality I mean also the grade of hatmakers.
Many Thanks
JR
It depends. I have never seen a beaver felt topper in the flesh. It is different from silk that’s for sure. Could you provide a link to a photo or two?
What an informative article. I’m pondering how you found all this information in the first place – there doesn’t seem to be a great resource of information regarding top hats online.
I have just picked up a top hat myself, from eBay, at a very reasonable price.
Having been to a hatters where the pristine models sell for a couple of thousand pounds I decided to watch eBay like a hawk! Good quality top hats on eBay generally go for about £150-250 [this is in Feb/Mar]. After watching the auctions for weeks I went for an auction that was not seeming so popular… Having thought that I could buy one, clean up and polish and resell if necessary, I managed to justify it.
I must say though that the hat I got is in stunning condition. Silk in perfect condition and the hat looks like it has only been worn a couple of times! I paid £70 and was EXCEEDINGLY lucky. I would have expected such a flawless hat to go for many hundreds.
A little reconforming is needed and now I must see if I can find a hat bucket!
I wonder how long until I get another top hat… I seem to be quite obsessed at the moment!
Oh, it is really addictive! Congradulations on getting a very good silk topper for a good price! I have noticed that basic prices have gone up from last year and I think that is because they are becoming more sought after. I have a couple of colleagues that want one but can’t because they have large hat sizes that basic prices are around £300-800 from the main hatters. One really has to save up and be patient when you want a silk hat in a large hat size!
As for my next topper, I’m already considering getting either a taller top hat than the one I got (which is 5 3/4″ high; I want one that is 6″) or a ‘mourning topper’ with a wide mourning band (but I probably won’t have a situation to wear that type!) But I should probably focus on getting a good hat box as I would need to transport my topper a lot in the coming months so I ought invest in a good one (the one I got with my topper is made of cardboard and isn’t fit for transportation as the hat is suspended with cords and will knock about when carrying the box) rather than getting another silk hat I really don’t need in all practicality…
I wonder if anyone would have any information about top hats made by “Burton”? I bought a top hat from a Dutch dealer and the hat itself is in good condition but I wonder where it came from? The only thing it says on the inside of the hat is “Burton. English Style 1820” and that´s it. The label has a 1950´s feel to it and for reasons I can´t quite explain, I think it might be American. It is size 7 1/4 and has quite wide brims which don´t really curve.
Any suggestions?
Burton is most certainly English. They don’t make hats anymore. What does it say on the lining? From what you say, the description is on a label stuck inside so one might guess it was bought by an American from England.
I just inherited a Burton top hat. On the inside the reseller has put his own label. It says Burton finest quality and the name of the reseller Jan Worm. The hat is bought before 1941 and in good condition. Can anyone tell me where the burton factory was and when it stopped making top hats?
I think a quick e-mail to Burton (which still exists) would provide you with the answers.
I LOVE TOP HATS, I’ve loved them since I first relized that I wanted to be noticed as a gentleman! I think it was around first grade lol, I coulden’t get one until second grade though but when I did I wore it around with Pocket watch and all. I’m sad to say that I don’t wear them much at all these days, just no reason to wear full formal wear. I guess a nice straw boater in the summer and trilby hats and caps in the winter will do for now.
I’m sorry to hear of you fashion disaster. I have lived in a Victorian/ Edwardian style since I was 10, I am now 16 and walk about in full regalia suited to the seasons. It is really worth doing, it makes you feel proud and stick your head up high.
Regards Zack M.P Hon
I tried the more cautious water method on my 6″ black silk top hat from 1849, and I must say the results are superb. I can’t wait to use this method on my other top hats.
Regards Zack M.P Hon
Charles Rupert:
Very informative here.
OK, need some assistance and a follow-up. In the US Worshipful Masters of a Masonic Lodge are supposed to wear black top hats. In the time up to the forties, most did. Many lodges retain old top hats from the estates of past masters. You said that very old hats were small, due to small heads. Very true! I may have available several old hats, 70 to 100 years old.
One is great looking -in good shape, a little wear on the right top side of the brim, due to tipping. Leather inside hat sweat band in fine, but very stiff. 55 or 56 cm size 7??
Here’s the issue: Can this be and How so, stretched to 7 3/8?
Can the little wear of surface on the brim be restored? What is the risk to the hat from stretching? I will be curious on the things no to do to it and the Cost.
Ron D, Boston MA USA
You can never stretch a hard shell hat. Basically, the crown of a top hat is made of a piece of shellac-coated calico formed into a cylinder then covered with plush fabric. If you tried to stretch it it will break as the shell is hard. There is basically no material to stretch. The hat is not a single piece of soft felt that can be manipulated but multipule pieces of plywood-like material that is set to one form and dimension. The only manipulation that can be done is reconformation from one head shape to another of the same head size. If you were one size larger then it is possible to take the old sweat out and replace it with a thinner sweat made of leather or silk as the sweat normally takes the shell down a size.
Therefore, you should buy a top hat in your correct size.
We noticed that you kindly have a link to Hornets Hats’ website. Whilst Hornets Kensington stores are still operating in London, the people who were running the Hornets Hats online store launched Top Secret Hats last year and as such the old website has been taken down. The new website is http://www.topsecrethats.com. I hope you will feel that we still offer the types of hat that interest you. We concentrate on offering the finest quality hats with excellent customer service.
With kind regards,
Sarah
I do beg your pardon. I do know about the change in site but have forgotten to update the link, etc. I will do this soon.
Thanks for this enlightening and informative article. I have two questions: Firstly, do you know the correct name for the long streamer/veil that adorns a funeral announcer’s or funeral director’s top hat? http://www.fanpop.com/spots/vincent-price/images/1170740/title/comedy-terrors-photo
Secondly, my husband wished to purchase a new top hat for various formal occasions, and after trying the hats of several current makers decided on a fur felt top hat by Akubra. In your opinion are they a quality maker of top hats?
I don’t think there is a formal name for the veil but I would just call it a ‘mourning veil’. It would be around 6′ long and of black silk gauze or muslin.
As for Akubra, you should only get a grey one as a black one would only be suitable for funerals. Note that they block their toppers like a soft hat so it would not be a traditional rigid hard hat and it is in fur felt rather than fur melusine/plush.
“Weeper” usually of black crape silk, is the cloth worn on funeral director’s top hat
[…] links about top hats: Guide to buying a top hat/ http://www.hedderwicksoflondon.com http://www.toffs-r-us.com Royal Ascot: Gentlemen prefer […]
Advice for people with large hat sizes:
I have a big head, so only 7 1/2 to 5/8ths will fit me. I have found that for XL sizes German eBay is great. On ebay.de I immediately found not one, but two XL silk top hats, both in magnificent condition. One was 23 1/2 inches full silk, the other 24 inches. Both went for far less than 200 GBP (I snagged the 24 inch one myself, in perfect condition though with a petersham brim). I found several others over the next week, all of which went at relative bargain prices. Perhaps the Germans had bigger heads in the 19th century than British people did, or perhaps there is simply little demand for large top hats there now. Whatever the reasons, larger sizes are relatively common on eBay.de, and they go for lower prices then equivalent British and American ones, likely because fewer english speaking people bother to check the foreign sites.
When searching German ebay, look for Zylinder Hut, not Klappzylinder. Klappzylinder means collapsible silk opera hats, of which there are plenty in Germany, also in large sizes and often with the original carrying case for a steal (usually go for around 20-30 euro).
Alternative regular-size silk top hat source:
Another seemingly untapped source for reasonably priced silk top hats in great condition is Etsy under the ‘vintage’ search function. While the largest sizes are rare and pricey, it is easier to get an excellent condition silk top hat there without the hassle of an auction and the risk of losing the perfect hat to another bidder. One problem with ebay is auction snipers who come in at the last second with the high bid and take your hat for a dollar more. That isn’t a problem on etsy since it’s a shop. Something to consider if you’ve been frustrated by ebay.
thankl you,but in german ebay it was mainly chapeu claque
Thanks for this wonderful site. I’m a historian of technology with a special interest in the history of hatters plush. I’ve been trying to find the name of the last mill producing it, and the date and circumstances of closure and what might have happened to the machinery. Years ago I interviewed a hat finisher in London who told me that from time to time there have been efforts to revive production of hatters plush, but the price would be too high. I have wondered whether some French technical or trade journal might have published an article about the process; perhaps there were even patents unless it was a trade secret. I’ve written to the Musee du Chapeau and they were helpful in general but had no sources on the silk plush trade. The process was considered so difficult in the 1890s that otherwise protectionist US hatters petitioned Congress to eliminate the duty on the material. Attempts to establish mills in the US had failed.
Was lovely looking through your site, particulary as you have pictures of brown and black top hats that were made by my Gt Gt Grandfathers company, Cooksey & Co of London…..his name was Samuel Cooksey and is lovely to see these old hats still in wonderful condition……….Gail Richard
I’m glad you like my top hat, it was a real find and an ecceptional beauty in beautiful condition. You should be proud of your grt grt Grandfather and what he set up 🙂
Regards Zack M. Pinsent
Charles, you wouldn’t happen to know where I could acquire some rayon plush similar to that used in the test topper above, would you? Ton Meeuwis still hasn’t put contact information up.
I wouldn’t know to be honest. And I very much doubt Meeuwis would give you any (that is if he has any left at all… ) when he wouldn’t even give me a tiny swatch of the silk plush to examine and verify its authenticity!
Yeah his secrecy around the silk plush is annoying, but it makes sense as he’s trying to protect his no-doubt lucrative trade secrets, of which I assume rayon plush is not one (unless he got whoever made that to replace the rayon with silk, in which case others could possibly do the same). My goal would be to contact him about the rayon plush and find out where he got it to see if I could acquire a meter or two.
Hahahahaha you made it your header pic!
[…] https://chwolfenbloode.wordpress.com/2009/05/15/guide-to-buying-a-top-hat/ Like this:LikeBe the first to like this post. […]
[…] How to buy a top hat – Charles Henry Wolfenbloode gives advice on buying a topper. […]
[…] some of the terms and topper jargon I use, please refer to the glossary at the end of the Guide to Buying a Top Hat […]
Great post! The bits I’ve read so far are, as I’m supposed to be doing something important….I’d like a top hat but I’m not sure where I could wear it outside of Ascot/weddings & I’m not into steam punk, I could pretend…
Well, I would not use a silk top hat for Steampunk, etc as it’s too precious to be pimmed up for such.
No, quite right. I would only be asked why I didn’t get a leather one instead.
[…] Guide to Buying a Top Hat (http://chwolfenbloode.co.uk) Share this:TwitterFacebookLinkedInTumblrEmailLike this:LikeBe the first to like this. […]
We have inherited a top hat, which, from looking at your description, is a black silk/fur melusine. It’s big – we measured the inside and found it to be 23 1/2 inches. Is this a 7 3/8? It’s a Henry Heath dating from 1934 with a hat box, and all are in good condition. Do you have any idea what this might be worth? Thanks!
If it is a 7 3/8 UK and in silk plush, it is worth a good £450-700. Possibly more if it is in very good condition. Of course, really all depends how you sell it, either though eBay or to one of the hatters who deal with hats such as this.
Thanks! Interesting news. We’ll investigate.
I am trying to contact SilkTopHats.eu by the email address given on their website, but I have got no response since August! Am I the only case?
Best regards, Dr
I don’t know as I haven’t been in contact with them myself.
is it theoretically possible to make a collapsible top hat with silk plush?
It is but the plush would go thread-bear very soon at the creases, plus you won’t be able to polish it.
Charles, have you any advice as to where I might go (in the UK) for a relatively inexpensive homburg repair – I have one where the stitching attaching the sweatband to the reed has gone and whilst it appears to be simply a case of re-doing it, I am too cackhanded to trust myself to do it properly.
You can try Lock’s but I think they might charge you a substantial sum. In any case, I would just e-mail them, with photos, for a quote. It also depends on whether the band is stitched on by machine or by hand because if it is by machine then they would say that the whole thing has to be taken out and redone or even replaced which would cost £70 from them. I could do it for you and the cost would depend on how much stitching in involved: if the whole sweatband needs re-stitching back onto the reed and then re-stitched back onto the hat, by hand (I do not possess the machine), it would be around £25-30, plus postage.
Dear Charles, very many thanks for your offer, which is very much more in the region of what I was hoping to spend! As it happens, by ruminating on your example I have been inspired to try restitching it myself and it is going passably well thus far. Should it come off at the first wearing, however, I will be beating a path to your door.
Thank so much for your answer. Another question, why no one has tried to reconstruct the looms that make possible the manufacture of silk plush? is difficult? is protected by patents? There are plans? if not you can use reverse engineering?
If it can be rebuilt, then the fabric manufacturing how much difficult is it?
TBH, I’ve heard that silk plush is still being produced but I cannot verify this rumour. In any case, it would probably cost far more than it is worth reconstructing the looms (which I imagine there are no traces of) or people are not bothered since there are enough antique silk toppers on the market and that people seem satisfied with fur plush ones. I would have thought that silk plush would be very similar to making silk velvet but unless someone puts big money into it and there will be a demand from the hatmakers in the UK who only just have remembered the skills in using gossamer (and I don’t get the feeling they are excited about these rumours of silk plush; maybe they think it is just a rumour) then I can’t see silk plush being revived.
Hello,
I’m having trouble buying a top hat. I’ve always wanted one but did not know all of the variations and considerations, and so I recently made a purchasing error.
I bought (online) a collapsable Knox opera top hat dating to the 1920s for $325, which I guessed was reasonable. I was told that it was size 7. It does seem to be in excellent condition. I don’t know for sure about material but I’d say silk grosgrain. Anyway, it may be size 7 but it doesn’t fit me! The shape is wrong– it is too short (and maybe too wide) for my head. So I feel like an idiot for wasting the money and I’m afraid to go ahead and try again.
I basically want to emulate the Fred Astaire style. That’s very important. It looks to me now that he didn’t usually wear the collapsing style hat? What do I need to know about his style– materials, crown shapes, etc?
What should I look for in terms of hat size, and head shape considerations? Are opera hats the sort that can be reshaped? Being in America, is it hopeless that I could find someone to do it anyway? Could I ever get rid of my hat and make some of my money back? Or should I just give up on the whole thing.
I’m very disappointed.
The opera hat you described seems to be indeed the wrong head shape. It, theoretically, could be re-shaped but the hatter must know what they are doing. The opera hat is constructed out of a metal frame so the ring that is the brim must be carefully re-shaped. I do not know how they did this (if it is possible). The price you paid for it is rather too high for its size (is it a English or American 7?) because I am a 7 and the ones I have bought (from the UK and Germany where there are hundreds on eBay) go for around £36-60 for that size. I would, given the circumstances, try and sell it off for what you paid for it or slightly less.
Fred Astaire always wore a normal silk plush top hat and as you’re a size 7 they are plentiful and affordable (£60-£125 is what I would expect at the present time but I haven’t been keeping track of prices recently). I would re-measure your head again. Head shape-wise that can only be determined through existing hats to work out if you are are regular oval, long oval or round oval, etc. In any case, a silk hat can be re-conformed with heat and a conformateur (there are still hatters in America who possess that essential equipment, though not necessary the knowledge of how to re-conform silk hats).
I hope that is of use!
I’ve kept looking for a normal silk plush top hat, primarily on ebay. I think the prices have gone up somewhat. At any rate, I haven’t had much luck yet in terms of selection and I don’t know how long I should expect to look.
Most of the hats that I see are the wrong size (I’m an American 7, which they tell me is a UK 6 7/8 or a Euro 56) or are in questionable condition. That makes me wonder what kind of standards I ought to have at the present time. How good is good enough, in your opinion, given what’s available? I’ve found one or two hats that seem to be in mostly excellent condition but have a little wear along the edge of the crown. To what extent would you say that this is acceptable? Also, in original old pictures of top hats (in movies, etc) I never noticed the “furriness” that seems to identify every vintage hat that I’ve seen listed. They always looked more smooth to me before now. Is that just a problem of image quality in old movies? What texture should an Astaire-style silk plush hat have?
When I find something that seems promising, head shape gets in the way. Usually they don’t give details related to head shape, and I ask. I’ve looked at some of my own hats. The ones that fit the best seem to be 7 and 3/4 inches by 6 1/2. I have yet to find a good hat that matches those measurements. One very good one was said to be “7.9 inches by just under 6.25” and I don’t know what to make of that. You say that hats can be reconformed, but you also expressed doubts that I would find someone skilled enough in America to do so. I’d hate to buy a wrongly shaped hat for a good amount of money, and then take it somewhere to be ruined.
At any rate, I might go somewhere they sell hats (which I usually buy online) and see what they think of my head shape and ideal size, in case I’ve made some mistake along the line.
Any other hints or recommendations? Thank you for your help.
A UK 6 7/8 should be readily available (though I haven’t been checking up toppers recently) but of course your head shape is the problem being round oval. It might be best to buy one size bigger (a UK size 7) to have that extra room for error (and pad out the spaces). There are many hatters in America that have the conformateur but the fact is that most of them have forgotten or never learnt how to use it on hard hats like toppers (the hat needs to be heated via a hot plate rather than steam which would be used for soft felt hats before it can be re-conformed) and one would need to give them proper instructions beforehand. If they have Henry Ermatinger’s book on hat making they should be able to learn how to. Of course, you would need to look around and ask the hatters if this is all possible before going down this route.
As for standards, a bit of crown wear isn’t much a problem if it is minor: it is the ones that look very obvious and worn all around that would be of concern (they are the ones I would reject outright if one were to wear it in proper circumstances but not if it is a rare very large hat size of course.)
The furriness that you speak of is because the vintage hats sold have not been polished, That is the nature of the plush after many years of use. Once it is polished with tallow it would shine like the ones you see in the films. Astaire always wore a silk hat that is polished.
Hello!
It seems that my quest for a top hat has reached a happy ending (not that I won’t necessarily want another in the future). I found a beautiful UK 6 7/8 on ebay. It was in excellent condition, by the description it fit my headshape, and it was even polished! So I bought it. It arrived today and the fit is almost perfect.
I do have follow up questions, regarding care of the hat. My biggest problem is that the hat really didn’t come with a box. Certainly not the “bucket” that I’ve seen– it was wrapped carefully in bubble wrap and put in a tighter cardboard container. It came through the mail all right without any damage, but I’m not sure that I trust the box for long term storage. This, especially given all the worn and damaged hats that I’ve seen, apparently from improper storage. Storing the hat safely is a high priority, and I want to get it absolutely right.
So, I am going to search for a box based on the suggestions you make above. Unless you recommend otherwise, I will try for a vintage “bucket” above all, perhaps starting on ebay. Should I keep anything in particular in mind in my search? Do you have anything to add related to hat boxes? Are other accessories necessary?
Also, there’s the whole issue of the hat being polished. Mine is polished already. How often would further polishing be needed? After a certain time from now, after each use, or based on some other measurement? If you do not recommend that I polish the hat myself, where (remember I’m in America) is the sort of place you would have me take it?
Any other general advice?
Thank you for all of your help, I could never have made it this far without this website and your personal comments.
IMHO, any sturdy box or hat box will do as long as you line the box with acid-free packing paper to avoid the hat rubbing against friction of any sort that would wear the plush. I find the cuboid type box with the flip lid and strap on the top practical and easy to store; they would have two slips of card inside and depending on the size of the gap, you would slip the brim through to suspend the hat; again, packing paper lining is essential. Those hat buckets can be cumbersome to look after and store and costs a fortune.
One would polish it as needed: i.e. when you can’t velvet pad the scruffs out any longer. Usually, the polish would last years if you wear it rarely and handle it carefully. I do not know anyone in the US that knows how to polish toppers but the correct thing to do is polish with tallow (rendered suet) which is applied using a calico pad that’s been wiped on a block of tallow, heated with an iron set to max then swiftly wiped over the plush a few times. I use to have a page on this blog on polishing but I feel it should be left to the pros unless you know exactly what you are doing.
What an interesting website – my ancestors were top hat makers in London from around 1790. They were Dunnage and Larkin on The Strand near Charing Cross and had the patent for “Waterproof Hats in Imitation of Beaver also Patent Silk Hats priced around £6s”. I have transcripts of hats being made and sold by Dunnage and Larkin (George Dunnage and Thomas Larkin), through to around 1818.
I would love to know if anyone has a Dunnage and Larkin Hat, if you do please show a picture of it.
I am
Annette Dunnage-Roy
New Zealand
Good afternoon!
I recently purchased a nice silk top hat, which has my size but does not fit well. I would be very pleased if you could recommend a hat maker on the continent (Netherlands, Belgium, Germany) that is able to reconform the shape of the hat.
I tried ‘Silk Top Hats’ in the Netherlands but they are not in the hat business anymore since the former owner (Ton Meeuwis) passed away.
Best regards,
Roy
The Netherlands
You might try the Spoorenbergs under the similarly named ‘Silk Top Hat’.
I did not know TM had passed away as I have not kept up with topper news for over a year now. It is too bad.
Dear Charles,
I tried Mark Spoorenberg. Unfortunately I got an email of his wife Astrid, saying that Mark Spoorenberg passed away on 23 October 2013. It is really too bad. Roy
Odd. I have a feeling Ton and Mark are of the same person… In any case your only bet is to visit the UK but it’ll probably cost more to get the whole thing done than buy a new one that fits (provided you have a normal hat size and head shape that is…)
Hello,
I just purchased my second silk topper and it needs a new sweatband.
Do you know where I can get a replacement sweatband?
Thanks
I assume you are not in the UK, in which case you need to find a competent hatter or hatmaker (I’m afraid I cannot help you with this as I am not familiar with foreign hatters) to replace the sweatband. The only thing they need to know that the sweatband needs to be hand-sewn onto the underbrim merino and so is unlike how it would be done on soft felt hats with a machine (and if they can’t understand that then I would avoid). If you need it to be done by those who know how to then you should contact Patey’s or Lock’s in the UK who have been renovating silk toppers since the very beginning.
I asked the only hatter I could find in Vancouver and she doesn’t work with silk toppers. I think I could manage replacing the sweatband my self. but I have no idea where to find the correct kind of sweatband used for toppers.
Hi, I don’t seem to be able to log in, so here is a suggestion for Parker McIntosh. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Top_hat On reading this they suggest a leather sweatband.
On 5/1/14 4:24 PM, “《秘雲舘》 Into the Hidden Clouds” wrote:
> Parker McIntosh commented: “I asked the only hatter I could find in Vancouver > and she doesn’t work with silk toppers. I think I could manage replacing the > sweatband my self. but I have no idea where to find the correct kind of > sweatband used for toppers.” >
I am wondering: are you saying that the topper in question doesn’t have a sweatband and you want one installed? There is something you should bear in mind: if it currently fits snuggly on your head then it would mean that when the sweatband goes on the hat size will reduce by at least one size meaning it would no longer fit. In any case, the sweatband is a bog standard leather one (the modern type with the cloth reed machined on is fine; the vintage method is to use a silk cord reed and hand sew that on with the sweat as you go) that is carefully hand stitched onto the underbrim merino. You can buy such sweatbands from some places that supply milliners items such as http://www.hatsupply.com/mens_supplies.htm but note that such sweatbands are rather thick meaning they could potentially reduce the size down by 2. Also get thick silk cord (around 1mm thick) and very fine silk thread. Once you’ve cut the sweat to size, match both ends together and secure with sticker or paper with glue. Then place on the opening of the hat and use a long needle with the fine silk thread like this: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/cardcaptorcharlie/Sartorial/189493_10150106474652063_8237684_n.jpg (this view is the opposite side where you work, i.e. the side of the brim you are stitching the sweat in is on your side close to you). Note how the silk cord is placed on the edge of the sweat on the underbrim. The needle should simply go through the leather then pick the underbrim merino (it should never go through to the goss underneath); the spacing of the stitches should be as close as you can get (around 1/16″). The fine silk thread could easily break at the needle eye so you have to manage that as you go along and thread a new length of silk thread as you run out or it wears out. It would take an hour or so to do this and I suggest a bright day in the sun so you can see what you are doing. Hope this helps.
If I understand correctly, the sweatband used in the vintage method is just a piece of leather cut to the correct size, then sewn in using a very fine needle and thread. I also have to make sure to sew in the silk cord at the same time.
Thanks for the help.
Hi I wonder if anyone could shine any light on a top hat I have required, is approx 50-60 years old, and made by G A Dunn and co, the only thins I can say are it has two small button like things on the inside rim withe the initials D C being D in one and C in the other, it’s clearly made of silk and it is 14cm high, and the inside measurement is 70cm across and front to back 21cm, the inside has what appears to be a leather band with a small bow at the front, and the outside has a black band around the base of the hat approx 4cm high.
I suppose what I really want to know is, does it have any value
Thanks for reading
Andy
Bedfordshire
The letters are the initials of the owner, the bow is at the back rather than the front of the hat. You’ve put 70cm as the across measurement which is impossible and unless I know the correct information I cannot tell the exact value.
Hi Charles, Nice to read your blog re: George Dunnage, you might like to have this blog for your files too. http://englishhistoryauthors.blogspot.co.nz/2012/04/time-travelers-alert-historical-history.html
Quite interesting although it does miss that George was later in business with Mr Thomas Larkin – Dunnage and Larkin patent silk manufacturers selling from 424 The Strand, St Martin of the Fields. It may interest you that George was granted a patent in 1798 by George III with his newest invention “A New Manner of Ventilating the Crowns of Hats” His petition showed a series of coloured drawings showing how his invention allowed external air to circulate freely in the interior of the hat’s crown by means of springs, slides, staples, sockets, grooves, loops and cases “which the wearer would find most agreeable”. (“The Dunnages”, weavers, hatters, clerics, colonists, Louise Buckingham, 2007 (ISBN 978-0-473-12718-3)). Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year Charles, Annette Dunnage-Roy, New Zealand. P.S. Larkin became family when George and Elizabeth (Larkin) married 1793.. So there you have an true and accurate history to the beginnings of the Top Hat in Britain.
Hi Annette
I used to be in contact with Louise Buckingham back in 2008. And did a lot of the history research on first Toppers, both Dunnage’s and also more recently Dollman’s. I loved Dunnage’s Ventilating top hat, it is great design – I consider it rather like a modern “Sun-roof” of a car !
Dunnage and Larkin also had other business post being hatters, and happy to speak/email further.
Kind regards
Doug
Ascot Top Hats
Hello Doug, So happy that you have seen my post and replied. Sadly Louise (my first cousin) died a couple of years back, but I will forward the message on to her daughters. Would you have a visual of a Dunnage and Larkin top hat? I would just love to see one – more especially the label inside the hat. My e-mail is: a.roy@xtra.co.nz. Infact I would love to hear from anyone who may have either a Dunnage Top Hat or a Dunnage and Larkin Top Hat. Best wishes, Annette Dunnage-Roy
[…] you wish to read more visit the Gentleman´s guide to buying a Top Hat here. Now some extant […]
I think a 100% wool Top Hat will do you justice. If it’s hand made, and satin lined, then that’s one step closer to being the perfect top hat. But the brand is really important too, otherwise the build just won’t be right. I got a couple from http://www.euroaccessories.co.uk/hats/top-hats.html/ … I’d stick to a british retailer, just because that’s where the hat originated from, so why not
I think for serious top hat wearers and collectors like myself, a wool one isn’t going to be good enough by our standards to be honest as much as an 18th century cow creamer is to a modern Dutch for silver collectors…
Hello Charels
I’m refacing the underbrim of one of my toppers. Do you know what type of glue should be used to attach the merino to the underbrim?
Thanks
You shouldn’t use glue but shellac varnish. I’ll give you a quick run down of the correct procedure:
1. Strip the old merino off the underbrim (after removing binding, sweatband, etc). Hopefully, it should come off in one piece. Lightly sand down the area if there are any bits of merino left clinging onto the shell. I would wear an apron and do it outside as it can get messy with the shellac dust. Afterwards, use a brush to remove any dust and dirt. I would also wrap the crown with a piece of packing paper to protect the plush as the hat would be upturned throughout the whole process.
2. Apply several layers of shellac varnish onto the entire surface of the underbrim and curl plus around 1-2cm inside for the inlay. Shellac varnish can be bought at some art shops, it is used for gilding etc. Four layers in the minimum I would say. Allow each layer a couple of minutes to set before applying another. Afterwards, wait overnight.
3. Cut a piece of merino wool to size. The correct type would be medium weight twill that is of a fine weave (not fuzzy). If it is too light and thin then the results would nit be good as the shellac would seep through. Carefully measure and mark onto the merino (with a tailor’s white wax chalk) the inside circumference, then allow around a 1cm inlay. Cut the inside then snip at the four points as reference (this should also be marked with pencil inside the hat so you can match).
4. Iron on the merino to the underbrim. Use a traditional flat iron and not a modern steam iron. Set to highest heat setting. Use a press cloth between the iron and the merino to avoid burning/shining it. The iron melts the shellac which sticks the merino to the shell. Start with the four points so everything will be aligned right then slowly work your way around the underbrim. At various points wait for it to cool then check for parts of the merino that haven’t adhered and re-do those. Then trim the edges of the merino slightly and begin ironing it onto the curl of the brim. There should be no folds or creases. Finally, using fine scissors, trim the excess off as close to the raw edge of the brim curl as possible to tidy up. Also carefully iron the inlay on the inside of the hat. Afterwards, leave overnight before you begin to hand-sew the trimmings back on.
I’ve done this a couple of times so this is how it would be done. Others might vary it. Of course, you could choose to ignore this and slap some PVA but I would, of course, advise against esp. if it is a good hat.
Thanks so much Charles
Also I just bought my forth top hat and it badly needs a polish. how would I go about polishing my hat, I’ve tried giving it a dry polish but that did not do much.
I just can’t get enough top hats!
Thanks
I’ve previously wrote a similar guide to polishing but took it down as I felt it should be left to the pros as its very easy to ruin the hat if done sloppily. In any case, I’ll give a brief run through here:
1. Dust off entire hat with hat brush. Use a soft bristle hat brush but if it is incredibly dusty (i.e. someone’s left it out of a hat box for years on end) you need to start with a standard general stiff bristle hat brush then work your way to soft.
2. Velvet pad polish to realign the nap.
3. Tallow polish. Make a pad could of calico or duck and stuff it with cotton. Wipe the face of it on tallow (chandler’s tallow or tallow made by rendering suet), place the face on the flat of an iron turned on max to melt the tallow then wipe on the hat in the direction of the plush. One must take care not to load too much tallow and to avoid soiling the trimmings. One only need to carefully wipe the fore and aft of the brim rather than its entirety.
4. Velvet pad polish to finish. Leave out for a few days to allow the smell to dissipate.
After polish, you only need to velvet pad polish whenever you scruff it or take it out to wear and it should keep for many years. One should only reapply the tallow if the whole hat is scruffy and no amount of velvet pad wiping is working to restore the shine, etc. Basically, the less you mess with the plush, the longer it will survive.
I will get a top hat beyond repair to practise on before I try polishing one of my good hats.
Thanks
As to “restoration work, there are several hatters that do this, most notably Ascot Top Hats, Lock & Co. and Patey’s, however, they more or less outsource to one workshop in the UK (possibly the world) that still has the tools, knowledge and skills for this kind of work, Cooper Stevens of Dulwich. ”
Au contraire!!!!!! There are other workshops in UK, and have also seen them overseas who can restore.
Doug
Ascot Top Hats
[…] If you would like more information on silk top hats I would suggest this blog’s Guide to Buying A Top Hat. […]
Ever since the 1950s, when I watched the Scarlet Pimpernel on TV, I have wanted a tapered Regency topper. The one on my FaceBook portrait is the serendipitous result of stacking my hats crown down; it is composed of a woman’s purple floppy (chosen for its colour, to match my purple shoes, etc.) and a maroon Moroccan fez. A visitor there bought the biggest he could find for a friend here, but it was too small for him, and he gave it me when we found it fit. I also found a black costume ditto somewhere on my travels. It was too tight until I recently took the plastic! sweat-band out, and removed the green band at the base of the six and a half inch crown. I wear it almost all the time now since, out of the blue, two or three strangers a day tell me that they like it. I have a plastic buckle for the front but would prefer silver if I can find one.
Thank you for this guide. It was invaluable to me for acquiring my first topper, which arrived today – looking much nicer than the photos no less!
[…] himself somewhat of a divine fashion plate, Stone even once tweeted out a guide to purchasing a top hat that he found on […]
Hi Charles,
I recently bought a 7 1/8 silk top hat off eBay for £70 (the buyer must not have realised its real value!). I took it to Locks to be restored and they said it was worth £1,500+ and would buy it off me!
I know the larger the size, the higher the price but what else would be the reason why my hat is worth so much?
Also, when I got the hat restored I had a new lining put in. This was Lock&Co branded. So if I went to sell on the hat somewhere else, would the buyer think it was originally made by Lock&Co or would they be able to realise it was produced by another hatters?
Thanks in advance
I think they priced it a tad too high given you can still get one that size for rather less as you have proved! You could of course easily sell it to Lock’s and pretty much make a profit for that though you probably want to get another for personal use. Generally speaking it is neither here nor there regarding the lining because the original hatmaker and the hatter (i.e. retailer) are two different entities.
Hello. Great article!
Do you by any chance know of a good source for a modern collapsible top hat in grosgrain? I wear a 61cm, so anything vintage is well and truly out!
I’m afraid I’m not too sure. Not been keeping up with topper news for several years now. You might have to ask Ascot Top Hats as they might know. Sorry I can’t help you much further!
What a fantastically informative article. Thank you for sharing all of this information on top hats.
I was recently told that top hats get passed down through families over generations. Have you heard about this and would you have any recommendations on resources to find out more? Thank you
Hello, I have a top hat that has been passed down in my family. It has the company’s initials. I was wondering if I could send you a photograph of the initials and perhaps someone could identify the manufacturer/company. Many thanks and let me know where I could email the photograph to. Best regards Pamela
Thank you Charles for such a comprehensive presentation. Even the comments and replies have interesting input. This has helped me to be a more savvy shopper. I am trying to find a collapsible silk top hat for my precocious 14-year-old grandson who loves to wear bow ties and owning a top hat is his heart’s desire.
One question I do have is regarding the best way to clean and perhaps polish a vintage collapsible silk top hat. Living in America leaves me without access to local top hat care experts, and I have had no luck finding online help for this query. If you or your readers have any suggestions or instructions in this regard, I would be most appreciative. Just having the top hat is only the first step for my grandson’s ownership; care and maintenance will be an integral part of this acquisition.
Sincerely,
Katherine
Not sure what you mean by polishing a collapsible topper as you really can’t as it’s flat silk fabric not plush with a directional nap.
Cleaning-wise, it depends on what material it is but dry cleaning fluid will probably be best to remove stains by spot wiping in places; not sure about when it is very mucky all over. Of course, it’ll be at your own risk; I would do a test on the underbrim or the inside of the brim curl and see how it fairs before attempting the whole thing.
Thank you Charles for your suggestions. As to “polishing” a collapsible topper, I do not know much if anything about caring for top hats, so I often will ask really stupid questions. My apologies.
Since I am looking for a vintage silk model that may need some cleaning attention when it arrives, I just would like to know how to teach my grandson the proper way to clean and care for a collapsible top hat. I will be the first to attempt any cleaning, then pass along instructions for future care. As such, do I need specific kinds of tools necessary for proper care and, if so, the proper technique(s) to use? Do you think using a brush attachment on a vacuum would be an option, or is this a strictly manual brushing process?
Please forgive my ignorance. Any help you can offer this old lady will be a gift most appreciated.
Sincerely,
Katherine
TBH, collapsible toppers rarely need much attention or cleaning. If it is dusty, a once over with a hat brush is suffice, then store in a box in collapsed state and that’s that really.
Hello Charles, I have been lucky enough to purchase a Scott and Co silk plush topper with a 60 cm sweatband circumference (size 7 1/2 or 7 5/8) with the plush in excellent condition but with a crack (not dent) running along the side and front of the crown. I live in Toronto, Canada and am looking for a local milliner that can block and melt repair the shellac gossamer.
I would also like to ask if it would be appropriate to replace the flannel or felt hatband with an appropriate real silk grosgrain band from Mokuba (Toronto). Are ribbons appropriate for suck a grosgrain band? I plan to keep the original hatband for authenticity.
Sincerely
Alfred E Lamprecht
A milliner might not know how to repair such things unless you know they’ve done one before. The skill to use gossamer shellac as far as I know aren’t a skill practiced by modern milliners or even hatmakers.
The Mokuba grosgrain ribbons are as close as you can get to the original pure silk ones. They can also be used to replace the brim binding if it has been worn out.
In Canada: John McMicking of L&H Hats. Dundas, very highly respected hatter.
Though a crack (cut) cannot be repaired given a break (cut) in the underlying calico . Let alone the damage to the outer silk plush. Depending on the severity… the shellac can still be remelted (reapplied if necessary) though the structural rigidy is leasened given cut calico. One method to consider is an additional layers can be added underneath inside but carefull application as to lessen the patch area from showing through. Like a lot of things many variables and a lot of depends !
Are you familiar with any hatters in the northeastern US ?
Thanks for this guide, really informative. I recently got a vintage top hat in pretty good shape. It just had some minor crown wear and all it needed was a good dust and a polish. The hat is marked “Shelton & Co., 12 Margate St. London.” It is a semi-bell crown and based off of other examples I’m familiar with, I’d put it at late 1800s-early 1900s. Do you have any information on Shelton at all? I know they were trading from the 1800s into the 1900s, but that’s all I have on them at the moment.