My most recent project was to make a black evening dress waistcoat, suitable for black tie and white tie.
It is of black pure silk faille (grosgrain), SB, four corded buttons, two welt pockets, rounded revers, full-U opening, double-pointed hem, etc. The backing is of heavy cotton-backed rayon twill and the lining is of cream bemberg-rayon twill.
The pattern is based on two black waistcoats I own: the revers are based on those of a Huntsman backless model.
The interesting thing is that the dart extends all the way to the arm syce, essentially creating a separate panel. This ensures the dart does not end in the middle of nowhere and also shapes the waistcoat better, especially for this kind of material which doesn’t stretch well with an iron.
It is mostly hand-sewn but some seams are machine-stitched where possible.
I’ve also commissioned a new pad for the buttonhole cutter so it can cut a shorter buttonhole. My buttonhole sewing has reached professional standard now and I can sew one much quicker than before.
Here are some photos of it.