Tailoring: double-breasted waistcoat

In my pursuit to learn tailoring (and hopefully apply for a Savile Row apprenticeship, Heaven willing), I have now attempted the double-breasted waistcoat. I’ve made one before in the form of the DB full dress marcella waistcoat but that was from pure guess work. For this one, I read the tailoring books and made it using pure bespoke methods of hand-sewing and pattern drafting, etc like I did for my morning dress trousers.

I initially decided on using a navy linen but it was too dark so I opted for the powder blue Irish linen (at £3 a metre, it was a steal). The backs were going to be cream rayon twill but I changed to blue cotton sateen as the former was too see through to take the striped linings. The pattern was based on the vintage grey one with some modifications. The result is pleasing though there is room for improvement: in particular, I should have selected a canvas and linen hollard that is more complimentary to the outer fabric to avoid the colour showing through to some extent.

Here are some images of the progress and end result.

Cloth chalked, mark stitched and cut.

Pocket installed.

Canvas inserted, facings and edges serged on, lapels installed.

Backs and lining installed.

Finished garment with buttons and buttonholes.

The hem is slightly higher with a more pronounced V shape. I also included a hidden buttonhole on the central seam for the Albert chain’s T-bar to go through to create a more balanced look when wearing it.